Ein Hod is about 15 Kilometers south of Haifa in Israel. We were fortunate to stay with stained glass artist Bob Nechin and his wife Sue during our stay and had the added benefit of knowing Jake’s daughter Vik whose Master’s project was shown recently as part of a young artist’s exhibit. Vik’s husband Hagai works at the Ein Hod Cafe while also going to school to earn his Bachelor’s in Photography. It was a unique opportunity to understand firsthand the community from different perspectives.
Carol had arranged beforehand for Nick and I to take a class in stained glass making. The 5 hour class (Sue said Bob always runs way over) allowed a great deal of time to talk and get to know one another.
Bob and Sue have resided in Ein Hod for 30 years. Bob, American born went to West Point during the Vietnam era and graduated among the top students in his class. Presented with the opportunity to do anything he wanted in the military he chose a Masters program at Stanford. Opposed to the war he soon became part of the anti war movement in the San Francisco Bay Area. For Bob the Vietnam War was an intuitive and specific disagreement and unlike other protestors not an anti-war philosophy. He was introduced to stained glass making in Berkeley, found his passion and never looked back. Not long after that he moved to Israel. Bob’s work has appeared in museums and has created significant work for public, private and religious buildings in Israel and abroad.
A very patient teacher, Bob worked with Nick and me first explaining the history of stained glass and then showing us the basic cutting techniques and tools. I chose from an assortment of designs that Bob had created for his classes and Nick created his own. While I thoroughly enjoyed the methodical cutting and shaping of the glass, fitting as precisely as possible the glass into position, grinding the edges smooth and lining them with copper tape, Nick later said this was not his kind of art finding it was a lot of work for the desired result.
I explained to Bob that I had been in charge of building a Synagogue and that part of this was managing the process of creating the artwork for the Aron Hagadash (Ark) and Ner Tamid (Eternal Light). We talked about the process of creating art for clients some who know exactly what they want, others who turn over total control to Bob and still others that work by committee. Bob has worked in all different methods and often acts as the Project Manager coordinating all the aspects of the art with the architectural elements. Since he had not done a Kaballah Tree of Life he was very interesting in the original design and final product for Beth Chaim Congregation. I explained that my wife Rebecca had designed the art originally as Torah Covers and that the design was executed by local California artists Michelle and David Plachte-Zuibeck. He felt the design was very suitable to stained glass and despite some of the challenges of making it all come together was also very impressed with the final product.
Bob is familiar with the politics of making things happen in a public forum. As Village leader in Ein Hod for a number of years Bob explained an interesting story about the Ayn Hawd Arabic village 1 kilometer up the road. (It should be noted if anyone is counting that Nick and I accidentally visited Ayn Hawd when among my now many driving misadventures I missed a turn.) Ein Hod prior to 1948 used to be an Arab village. Displaced from the original village resentment has been fueled by a lack of basic water, sewer and power services to the new Arab village up until 10 years ago. Ein Hod is among a number of similar villages used as an example for what has not worked very well in Israeli/Arab relations. Working with a local artist Evana Ratner in trying to mend relations, Bob helped initiate conversation with his Arab counterpart to smooth the way for Evana’s program of working with children in each village creating films about each other’s grandparents. This program and other similar efforts in Ein Hod has drawn some attention from the Guggenheim family and last year prompted a visit from Stanley Guggenheim who recognized Ein Hod and its significant contribution to the Dada art movement and efforts in Arab Israeli relations. The challenge is always present to bridge the human relation gap when so much animosity exists. Fear, anger and a terrible mistrust resides on both sides. Bob said that buses arrive all the time amid the frequent tourist trade in Ein Hod. But on occasion a bus arrives with an Arab delegation who tours the artist village taking photographs and notes and demanding the return of the village to the displaced Arab village up the road. The artist village of Ein Hod is generally made up of fairly open minded and liberal thinking people but to them the village belongs to the artists who live here now for more than 50 years. The hope is that perhaps as time passes and the older generation moves on the younger generation can find a way to open meaningful dialogue.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Monday, July 6, 2009
Friends in Hydra
Where ever we seem to go in Greece Nick seems to be mistaken for Greek. Not sure if it’s his looks or appearance but the other night Nick while walking around Hydra he made some Greek friends his own age. The boys are 16 and 17 years old and work at the Four Seasons Resort. Local to the island the boys have adopted Nick as their Americani friend from California. Yesterday Nick took a water taxi to the resort and hung out while his friends worked. The popular one (Nick cannot remember his name) speaks English and French as well as Greek. Nick overheard the group while sitting up at the Fortress one evening speaking in English with a couple of girls also working at the Four Seasons from Slovakia. Jumping right into the conversation they were having about music Nick fit right in.
I know someone in Prague Nick said to the girls.
No…that’s the Czech Republic. Slovakia is the other half of Czechoslovakia, a different country now.
The girls spoke English better than the Greek boys. The girls said they like Americani accents. The Popular Boy said he liked the accent too, especially the southern accent. The kids hang out together at night like everyone else does. They have cell phones and collect MP3’s but they do not sit at home watching TV or playing video games. They hang out, make up games, eat at the restaurants and talk about different kinds of boats they want to own when they can afford to buy one. No cars on Hydra so they learn to drive boats instead.
Socializing in Hydra is the pastime that everyone young and old does. I have no idea what everybody is talking about but the café’s are packed every night and not just the tourists but the locals as well. It’s hard to tell the difference since this seems to be a popular destination for Greek tourists more so than non Greeks. While Nick has been doing most of the socializing I have taken it upon myself to sample all the food.
I start my day with Yogurt, fruit and honey and a double Greek (don’t say Turkish) coffee for breakfast, Greek salad with a big hunk of Feta cheese and local bread for lunch and a host of different seafood (Octopus to squid to red mullet), skewered meats, chicken or pork called Souvlakia and pasta, yes pasta and the ever popular Gyros in a Pita Bread. The bakeries are sensational and add local marmalade or honey and it’s hard to beat. For dessert there is an assortment of filo pies and ice cream everywhere.
So what else is there to do besides eat? Sweat. I think I lose a pound or two of water every time I go outside. I think this is why the Greeks look so healthy. They eat this terrific Med diet and then sweat it all off. I usually drink one these huge 1.5 litre water bottles with every meal. That and of course an ouzo (over ice makes the clear ouzo go cloudy), a glass of retsina (tastes like turpentine but you acquire the taste) and Mythos beer (beer of the Gods, no kidding)
The kids say Greeks are proud of their past but not so much the present. As one of the waiters who greeted Nick like a long lost relative at the café said to me (saw Nick’s Ramones shirt and is a huge fan, saw them 3 times in Athens)…work is work here. It’s not so beautiful.
I know someone in Prague Nick said to the girls.
No…that’s the Czech Republic. Slovakia is the other half of Czechoslovakia, a different country now.
The girls spoke English better than the Greek boys. The girls said they like Americani accents. The Popular Boy said he liked the accent too, especially the southern accent. The kids hang out together at night like everyone else does. They have cell phones and collect MP3’s but they do not sit at home watching TV or playing video games. They hang out, make up games, eat at the restaurants and talk about different kinds of boats they want to own when they can afford to buy one. No cars on Hydra so they learn to drive boats instead.
Socializing in Hydra is the pastime that everyone young and old does. I have no idea what everybody is talking about but the café’s are packed every night and not just the tourists but the locals as well. It’s hard to tell the difference since this seems to be a popular destination for Greek tourists more so than non Greeks. While Nick has been doing most of the socializing I have taken it upon myself to sample all the food.
I start my day with Yogurt, fruit and honey and a double Greek (don’t say Turkish) coffee for breakfast, Greek salad with a big hunk of Feta cheese and local bread for lunch and a host of different seafood (Octopus to squid to red mullet), skewered meats, chicken or pork called Souvlakia and pasta, yes pasta and the ever popular Gyros in a Pita Bread. The bakeries are sensational and add local marmalade or honey and it’s hard to beat. For dessert there is an assortment of filo pies and ice cream everywhere.
So what else is there to do besides eat? Sweat. I think I lose a pound or two of water every time I go outside. I think this is why the Greeks look so healthy. They eat this terrific Med diet and then sweat it all off. I usually drink one these huge 1.5 litre water bottles with every meal. That and of course an ouzo (over ice makes the clear ouzo go cloudy), a glass of retsina (tastes like turpentine but you acquire the taste) and Mythos beer (beer of the Gods, no kidding)
The kids say Greeks are proud of their past but not so much the present. As one of the waiters who greeted Nick like a long lost relative at the café said to me (saw Nick’s Ramones shirt and is a huge fan, saw them 3 times in Athens)…work is work here. It’s not so beautiful.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Hydra Photos and Drawings
Sea Dog by Nick
Woman swimming with umbrella by Nick
Greek vacationer by Nick
Greek Seaman
Hydra Port with DonkeysJuly 5th Hydra Greece
It’s now July 5th and we are on the island of Hydra in Greece and I am skipping forward a bit because…well because I can. (I will come back to fill in as I think about it.) Internet access is limited in Hydra to the cafes on the port and only up to a certain time of the evening. Hydra is a small island with no cars, bikes or motor vehicles of any kind. Your choice to get around is by water taxi, walking or donkey. The narrow cobblestone streets are alleys not exactly suitable for cars anyway. Consequently the modern sounds are limited to motor boats, cell phones and the rattle of suitcase wheels. The modern world disappears for the most part with the clack of mule hooves on stone, the church bell rings at each hour amid the passionate voices of Greek rising and falling with the wave of expressive motion. Like Hebrew it is an ancient language made modern. To say this is a laid back country is hardly giving it all.
I did our laundry in the hotel bathroom sink and hung it out to dry along the alley. Why use a washing machine when there is so much time to do nothing. The contrast to rev up Israel, Greek life seems to be an ongoing every day vacation. It’s fitting in the sweltering heat and dry air. Everything slows down and the Port in Hydra is full of people all day and all night at the cafés. Seriously people here know how to socialize. This is not just the tourists it’s the whole family who drink, play backgammon, talk and smoke. Lot’s of smokers here.
The port is run by ruddy old Greek men who are as fit as Americans half their age. The combination of the Med food, easy going lifestyle and hands on jobs make for healthier aging despite the smoking.
I did our laundry in the hotel bathroom sink and hung it out to dry along the alley. Why use a washing machine when there is so much time to do nothing. The contrast to rev up Israel, Greek life seems to be an ongoing every day vacation. It’s fitting in the sweltering heat and dry air. Everything slows down and the Port in Hydra is full of people all day and all night at the cafés. Seriously people here know how to socialize. This is not just the tourists it’s the whole family who drink, play backgammon, talk and smoke. Lot’s of smokers here.
The port is run by ruddy old Greek men who are as fit as Americans half their age. The combination of the Med food, easy going lifestyle and hands on jobs make for healthier aging despite the smoking.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Israeli Plumbing and Other Interesting Things
As someone who has spent a great deal of his life in and around construction I can’t help notice things that to others might not be all that interesting. Plumbing for example helps to determine the date of construction from the ultra utilitarian period (UUP) to the modern utilitarian period (MUP). A good example of the UUP era is the public restrooms in the Arab Bizarre in Jerusalem. Privacy being of utmost importance for what one must do here these restrooms have a door and a lock, a hole in the floor and a bucket but unfortunately no toilet paper. It is not clear how all of this is supposed to work together but it is advisable to use for emergency purposes only.
Perhaps the MUP era is best represented by the pervasive use of photovoltaic water heaters. Mounted on the roof the water tower is situated next to a solar panel. Depending upon the size of your tank and the age and or cleanliness of the solar panel will determine how many minutes of hot water you will get.
While toilets have evolved from one flush only, to little flush and big flush (this seems to be European influenced) the shower is somewhat more primitively entrenched in the UUP period. Tile and mosaic floors are sloped to a single drain in the restroom which are pragmatically maintained with a squeegee or floor mop provided. Controls for the shower may vary from hand held heads (also European influenced) to three and sometimes four controls for pressure, hot, cold and a fourth knob for no known or anticipated reason.
It should be noted that while traveling beware of some rooming houses that offer “full kitchens.” In one which will remain nameless the full kitchen included one knife, one spoon, one plate and an ashtray. Most do include however a mini fridge, hot water maker, sink and an interesting instant Turkish coffee packet (most of it sinks to the bottom intentionally) along with plenty of sugar.
Locals are the first to say that simple everyday things that we take for granted in the US are more difficult here. Finding good cuts of fresh meat, poultry or fish is limited. The same is true for fruits and vegetables. On the other hand fresh baked bread is plentiful and goat and sheep (but not cow) cheese and yogurts is offered in many varieties. Packaged products are also limited and depending on what you are looking for you might not be able to get it right away or in some cases never again.
Underlining life in Israel is a tough pragmatic approach to living. People work hard here to maintain day to day existence. From the early settlers, later immigrants and Holocaust survivors comes a sense of what is important, perhaps basic but always practical.
Rooftop water heater
Shower and toilet with mop
Perhaps the MUP era is best represented by the pervasive use of photovoltaic water heaters. Mounted on the roof the water tower is situated next to a solar panel. Depending upon the size of your tank and the age and or cleanliness of the solar panel will determine how many minutes of hot water you will get.
While toilets have evolved from one flush only, to little flush and big flush (this seems to be European influenced) the shower is somewhat more primitively entrenched in the UUP period. Tile and mosaic floors are sloped to a single drain in the restroom which are pragmatically maintained with a squeegee or floor mop provided. Controls for the shower may vary from hand held heads (also European influenced) to three and sometimes four controls for pressure, hot, cold and a fourth knob for no known or anticipated reason.
It should be noted that while traveling beware of some rooming houses that offer “full kitchens.” In one which will remain nameless the full kitchen included one knife, one spoon, one plate and an ashtray. Most do include however a mini fridge, hot water maker, sink and an interesting instant Turkish coffee packet (most of it sinks to the bottom intentionally) along with plenty of sugar.
Locals are the first to say that simple everyday things that we take for granted in the US are more difficult here. Finding good cuts of fresh meat, poultry or fish is limited. The same is true for fruits and vegetables. On the other hand fresh baked bread is plentiful and goat and sheep (but not cow) cheese and yogurts is offered in many varieties. Packaged products are also limited and depending on what you are looking for you might not be able to get it right away or in some cases never again.
Underlining life in Israel is a tough pragmatic approach to living. People work hard here to maintain day to day existence. From the early settlers, later immigrants and Holocaust survivors comes a sense of what is important, perhaps basic but always practical.
Rooftop water heater
Shower and toilet with mopDay 11 – Arriving in Ein Hod
From Mt. Hermon which has a ski resort (one of only a few in the Middle East) we headed west on Highway 99 and stopped at a café on the Kibbutz Dafna where we enjoyed an assortment of salads, a fresh bakery, a local beer and cappuccino. We then backtracked to Highway 90 going south and cut over near the ancient town of Safed going west on Highway 85 to Roman seaport of Akko. Many of the Israeli highways have ongoing improvement projects which are clearly delineated from normal highway driving with orange painted lanes, a nice touch. I should also mention that stop lights flash green before changing to red and yellow before changing to green; also a nice touch.
Highway 4 runs North South near the coast and was relatively straight forward until we got to Haifa where I accidentally veered off the highway onto Haifa city streets. We of course got lost again and with the help of the GPS and Nick’s sense of direction we were able to get back on our route to the Artists Village south of Haifa called Ein Hod.
Carol had arranged for us to stay with a local stained glass artist Bob Nechin. Bob like several other artists in the village have rooms to rent and offer hands of classes in their craft. Our accommodations were a one room apartment below Bob’s studio and had a full kitchen. His wife Sue made sure we had everything we needed. After freshening up we headed into the village to meet up with Jake’s daughter Vik and son in law Hagai at the Ein Hod Café. Vik is completing her Masters in Art and Hagai is getting his degree in Photography. They live in Haifa and Hagai works at the Ein Hod Café. It was Indian food night at the café and while Hagai waited tables Vik, Nick and I and later two of Vik’s friends talked about life in Israel, travel, art and a host of other topics.Highway 4 runs North South near the coast and was relatively straight forward until we got to Haifa where I accidentally veered off the highway onto Haifa city streets. We of course got lost again and with the help of the GPS and Nick’s sense of direction we were able to get back on our route to the Artists Village south of Haifa called Ein Hod.
Ein Hod Village near Dada Museum
Couple in Ein Hod. This couple is also done in a sardine can elsewhere in town.
Bob Nechin's Studio
The Artist's Village of Ein Hod
Ein Hod Cafe with Hagai, Vik and owner Melanie
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